hollywood burbank (bob hope) airport, terminal b

The Set Up

When I landed in Burbank a few days ago I quickly scouted the terminal on the way to baggage claim looking for a bar to review on my way out of town. Guy Fieri’s Restaurant and Bar was right outside my arrival gate and I spotted it right away. I don’t know what constitutes and Celebrity Chef anymore. When the media landscape was less robust, I believe you actually had to be a chef trained in the culinary arts, but after decades of Food Network and Travel Channel, dozens (hundreds?) of people are thought to be celebrity chefs that are no more than food focused media personalities. The ascension of foodie life has all led to the restaurant industry being heavily romanticized; now everyone thinks that opening their own restaurant is like running away to join the circus. Restauranteur and media personality, Guy Fieri has contributed to this phenomenon over many years and is now quite recognizeable. I made a mental note to leave enough time to eat here before the return flight.

Heading out of work Thursday afternoon, I’m halfway across the LA Basin from the Burbank Airport. This is not a bad drive for someone that doesn’t live here but it does take time. 75 minutes later I am pulling into the rental car return lot and as I throw my keys to the attendant and begin the legitimately long walk to the terminal I check my watch and time is running short. I should have tracked it, but I would say the chain of elevated sidewalks that connects the rental car lot to the terminal is close to a mile. Through the front door of Terminal B, to the baggage check and into TSA I go. There is no CLEAR, which sucks, so I’m in line. You, dear reader, may not believe this but I can be quite the impatient fellow depending on the circumstance. I am trying to hold it together as we get through the Federal jobs program that is the TSA checkpoint, and the folks in front of me in line are in various stages of disorganized. A few deep breaths, serenity now, and I’m through. My plane boards in a little more than an hour, this is going to be close.

Guy Fieri’s Restaurant and Bar has customers seated but its not packed. There are 6 seats at the bar, all full, and maybe 15 tables. I make eye contact with the server, “Where do you want me?” The server happily, with a smile, tells me I can sit anywhere I’d like and I find the available table closest to the bar proper, throw my bag in one chair, and plop down in the other. The server (whose name I would later learn is Ericka) is prompt and cheerful, she asks me about my intensions and after a brief interview suggests I order the Ride On Hazy IPA from Golden Road Brewing Company.

Ericka brings my beer to the table in short order with a menu for me to review. There has been no discussion about my timeline but she is efficient and incredibly hospitable, I get the impression that she might give a shit whether or not I enjoy myself while in her care.

The menu has categories of food to satisfy all. Each item, while generally recognizable, has the flair in the description that you would expect if you had watched Guy Fieri on TV. Burgers, sandwiches, burritos, all look pretty good.

I would like to be able to sit here for a bit a get into a few of these Golden Roads but time is short. I need to make a decision.

No sooner does this thought cross my mind when my delightfully prompt and smiling new friend is at my side asking what we want to do.

the selection

Based on past experience, I would typically not recommend eating raw fish in an airport. However, the professionalism and sincerity of the staff, gives me confidence. Truthfully, I don’t know if Guy Fieri has a good reputation or not, but he’s got a TV show and weirdly, that plays into my decision to order the uncooked tuna here. Anyway, I grew up eating sushi and have enjoyed all manner of raw fish for most of my life. Years ago, I got in the habit of visiting Hawaii frequently and along the way fell in love with poke (po-kee? po-kay? does anyone really know?). The Poke Bowl as a menu item can be combined with so many diverse ingredients, but my favorite element is the contrast of cold fish served on warm rice and it has been a great disappointment historically when, out of either laziness or circumstance, the rice in the bowl is cold. I am reading this description and there is nothing missing. Whisk me away to the beaches of Maui, I’m ready.

the presentation

The presentation of the dish is remarkable. The colors are bright and contrasting and I am immediately ready to dig in. Ericka, stops me before I tear it apart to tell me about the sauce. She advises me that the reduced soy sauce already has the wasabi in it and that it will pack quite a punch so I should be careful. I lean toward spicy bold flavors so I doubt the sauce will overwhelm me, but I do appreciate the point of service. There is nothing else she can do for me at this time, she turns and leaves me alone with The Bowl.

The main ingredient is the sashimi grade Ahi and the portion of fish is very respectable. Moving clockwise from the Ahi, next are the crispy wontons perched above the edamame which is followed by a seaweed salad and spicy mayo served on a bed of rice. Sprinkled around are the wasabi peas.

the bites

The first bite is nearly entirely seaweed salad with just a bit of spicy mayo. It’s incredible. The neon green seaweed salad is sturdy and slippery and contains a hint of salt from a mild soy dressing and a sesame seed or two. Multiple chews in, the flavor is still exploding. Just before I finish the mouthful, I grab a single wasabi pea and toss it in my mouth, which crunches delightfully as I finish the remainder of the bite.

The second bite consists of mostly Ahi with a little bit of the rice bed on the fork as well. The fish is fresh and flavorful with a firm consistency. If I had a complaint at this point, it would be that the rice is not quite warm enough. It probably was when they starting plating the dish but by the time it gets to me its barely above room temp. This is really a tikitak complaint. Barely noticeable but, nonetheless, I noticed.

The third bite is 50/50 fish and rice which I proceed to drag through the ramekin of reduced soy and wasabi sauce. Ericka was right, the flavor in the sauce is powerful and intense. There is not enough wasabi in the mix to burn the back of my nose but it is present to be sure. Just as the bite was finishing, I dunk the bare fork back in the sauce and lick it off to get an additional impression.

My plane boards in 20 minutes.

What I will call the fourth bite is actually a series of shovels full that head toward my mouth in succession. I’m getting all of the flavors now. Spicy mayo, seaweed salad, rice. Ahi, spicy mayo, edamame. Edamame, seaweed salad, rice. A forkful of wasabi peas. This continues until all that is left is the tattered remains of a once carefully packed bed of rice.

the score

Guy Fieri’s Kitchen and Bar provided me with a very good experience. The service was top notch both in attitude and efficiency. Ericka would be a great addition to the team of any restaurant or bar that I can think of. Her most important quality was that I believed she cared about my level of satisfaction with both the food and the experience as a whole. This was not just about me either. I watched her work the entire room in the same manner, table to table, guest to guest. She provided a professional grade experience, and for that I’m appreciative.

The food was also very good. I mean it was actually really good. Forget that I was in an airport bar, if I ate that meal anywhere I would have been pleased. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

This meal brings me to wonder what would constitute a 5 star experience because it was really good. I suppose it’s like pornography, I’ll know it when I see it.