Denver International Airport – concourse c

The set up

Security at DIA was jammed. They are remodeling something where security is supposed to be, or so it seems, and the place where security has been moved does not appear to be big enough for its purpose. Even with CLEAR it still takes most of an hour to be given the TSA stamp of approval. I have 3 hours until my plane loads. 

At the moment, I am more thirsty than hungry, so I set out through Concourse C in search of a local establishment from which to address these needs. Among the usual set of fast food, coffee joints and newsstands there is a crowd (a crowd!) gathered around Timberline Steaks and Grille. As I make my way through the no fewer than fifty people to get to the host stand I think to myself that not only is this place so good they are running a wait but they actually have a host at the host stand to help facilitate the beginning of my dining experience. I explain to the host that I am a party of one and can sit anywhere, but prefer the bar itself and then fade back into the bustling concourse. 

Its a good thing I don’t have to be anywhere. It takes about twenty minutes for my name to be called, I appear to be the last in the wave because by the time they call me up, I’m pretty much the last person waiting. They have found me a nice seat at the corner of the bar, right next to the “to go” station. For the rest of my experience, periodically a stranger will be closer than you would want to my place setting. Another funny circumstance is that as soon as I sit down a woman asks if she can take the spot next to mine, which of course is fine by me and then until she leaves for her flight people will try to insist that we’re together.

The bartender is busy but attentive and in relatively short order I’ve got a menu in my hand and he is telling me his name and that he is going to take care of me this afternoon and would I like anything to drink. Why yes, yes I would, in fact, I might have two. I find a local IPA on the list which he confirms is a good choice and off he goes.

A little more than an hour and three beers go by before I reach for the menu to review my dinner options. Quickly, my new friend, the bartender, whose name I cant remember, is by my side asking for my selection.

The selection

The menu description is very appetizing. Roasted mushrooms are the first ingredient and I don’t know where Haystack Mountain is but the specificity is very encouraging. One or two squash/zucchini for volume and who doesn’t love pesto?

My vision for this dish is an open faced rendition on a rustic, Como bread with a really nice chew. The goat cheese base covers the bread generously, topped with a delightful pile of assorted wild mushrooms roasted to perfection, a couple of squash for color and a dollop of pesto on top.  I’m contemplating ordering a crisp sauvignon blanc or even Sancerre if they carry a French list. 

As it turns out the wine selection is lacking so I decided to stick with the High Altitude IPA from Boulder Brewing Company. 

Anticipation builds as the meal is being prepared. 

the presentation

Ok, so the hamburger bun was unexpected but it appears to be fresh. I choked when the bartender asked for my preference of side dish. I should have gone with the hericot vert but ended up with the fries. 

As it turns out, the sandwich is mostly squash with a few roasted mushrooms of the domestic variety.  To the best of my knowledge these mushrooms don’t have a name, they are literally white mushrooms from the Safeway.  No elven creatures roaming the countryside hunting for these gems, they’re garden variety farmed mushrooms. 

the bites

The first bite is one of almost entirely undercooked zucchini and squash (these are the same thing). It is not a terribly flavorful bite but it’s not off putting either

The second bite is mostly undercooked zucchini and squash as well. The thing is the level of undercooked is just lazy. It’s not edgy or trying to reimagine the mouthfeel of the bite. It’s flaccid in some chews and undercooked in others. The result of a lazy cook or an underpowered microwave. 

The third bite is as good as it’s going to get. A really nice mix of mushroom and goat cheese with one or two squash elements. It’s really flavorful and the fat from the goat cheese is nicely balanced with the saltiness of the mushrooms. For a brief moment I am nearly living the anticipated experience from the menu description. 

The remaining bites are mostly squash and the sandwich is falling apart at this point. I’m relegated to using the fork to collect the remaining vegetables and send them home. 

The fries are fries. I only had a couple. The ketchup was from a can.

In the end this was an edible sandwich that I don’t believe harmed me in any way. 

the score

Per usual, I have adopted a five star scale for gastronomic delights and, as will become evident in future posts, a 100 point scale for wine. 

I give this meal a solid ⭐️1/2. One star for being edible and a half star for the one good bite, that while it didn’t meet my expectations entirely, was rather tasty. Two bites in a row of that caliber and we would have been solidly ⭐️⭐️+